How AAPI Innovation Shaped the World of Mezcal and Modern Spirits
- Jodie Lindsay Popma
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
May is Asia American Pacific Islander month and this umbrella term includes all individuals of Asian, Asian American, or Pacific Islander ancestry, tracing origins to countries, states, jurisdictions, or diasporic communities across Asia and the Pacific Islands.
May’s Distilling Dames spotlighted the impact of AAPI innovation on the world of mezcal — and thanks to Kelly Dressman of Dry Land Distillers, we now have an incredible story to tell. Earlier this year, Krystal Tamura and I traveled to Oaxaca to deepen our understanding of this spirit and witness firsthand how mezcal is crafted with such intention, skill, and heart.
AAPI Influence on Distilled Spirits
The influence of AAPI (Asian American and Pacific Islander) culture and entrepreneurship on the distilled spirits industry is profound, stretching from historical origins to modern craft innovations.
Foundational Techniques
• Filipino sailors settling in western Mexico in the 16th century introduced traditional Asian coconut and palm distillation methods via the Manila- Acapulco Galleon Trade
• The clay and wood stills they would use (called “Filipino Stills” or “Mongolian Stills” or Pinoy style stills) were adapted for local agaves by indigenous peoples, laying the technical groundwork for Mezcal and Tequila.
The Rise of Asian Spirits
• Spirits originating in Asia—such as Japanese whisky, Baijiu (China), and Shochu/Soju (Japan/Korea)—are among the most consumed spirits globally.
• These spirits have moved from niche imports to staples in premium Western cocktail programs, offering complex flavor profiles to reinvent classic drinks.
Craft Distilling & Innovation
• Rice Spirits: AAPI founders are modernizing traditional rice spirits in the West. Oregon-based Vinn Distillery (closed) produces rice-based baijiu and whiskey, while brands like West 32 Soju and Moto Spirits craft expressions tailored to local palates.
• Cultural Fusion: Entrepreneurs have created mainstream hits by crossing cultures. For example, Cambodian refugee Steve Yeng co-created Skrewball Peanut Butter Whiskey, blending a beloved American snack flavor with spirits entrepreneurship.
Industry Leadership
• Representation: AAPI professionals are shaping consumer trends/, marketing, and the spirits judging circuit.
Nicolette Teo, a three-time Olympic athlete, transitioned into spirits leadership as Managing Director of the San Francisco World Spirits Competition before co-founding the L.A. Spirits Awards, where her oversight influences the commercial visibility of global craft brands.
Beverage expert and author Kim Haasarud has spent two decades judging elite competitions and serving as national president of the USBG, developing high-level drink strategies for major hospitality groups.
Industry veteran Juyoung Kang, lead bartender for premier Las Vegas venues, evaluates products for the Bartender Spirits Awards based on their commercial viability and application in modern mixology.
Roland K. Ng, General Manager for Kanosuke Distillery and an Icons of Whisky recipient, serves as a specialized blind-tasting judge for the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
Fun Facts:
There are 25-30 Sake Manufacturers in the US and only about a third of them are AAPI owned.
There are around 10 Soju/Shochu manufacturers in the US
Here is a list of the AAPI owned manufacturers:
Minhwa Spirits: Fully Asian American-owned. It was co-founded by close high school friends James Kim and Ming Han Chung.
Yobo Spirits: Fully Asian American-owned. It was founded by Korean American lawyer Carolyn Kim, who later partnered with famed Korean American chef Kristen Kish.
Hawaiian SHOCHU Company: Fully AAPI-owned. It is a small-batch, traditional operation founded and operated by Ken and Yumiko Hirata.
American Shochu Company: Co-owned by Takatsugu (Taka) Amano (a Japanese immigrant) and his wife Lynn Amano. Lynn holds the majority ownership stake in the business. Permanently closed
West 32 Soju: Co-founded by Daniel Lee (Korean American) and his college friend Maxwell Fine.
Out of over 2700 distilleries in the US, only about 30-50 of them are AAPI owned. Which is about 2%!
In February - Krystal and I, with a few other amazing Distilling Dames traveled to Oaxaca for the Oaxacan Food & Wine Festival. We learned all about Mezcal distillation. She created this amazing information sheet, which we presented to the Dames on May 14th.
Oaxaca: Mezcal Palenque
A palenque is a traditional mezcal distillery, typically family-owned and operated throughout Oaxaca and surrounding regions of Mexico.
Traditional mezcal production emphasizes: Regional agave varieties Wood-fired roasting Wild fermentation Small-batch distillation
Agave Varieties & Tasting Notes
Agave | Region | Flavor Notes |
Espadín | Oaxaca | Balanced smoke, citrus, roasted agave, tropical fruit, pepper. |
Tobalá | Oaxaca/Puebla | Floral, honeyed, herbal, wet stone, delicate smoke. |
Tepeztate | Oaxaca | Herbal, eucalyptus, minerals, earthy smoke. |
Cuishe | Oaxaca | Savory, clay, herbs, smoke, saline characteristics. |
Traditional Mezcal Production Process
1. Harvesting (“Jima”) — Mature agave is harvested by jimadores after years of growth.
2. Roasting — Piñas roast in underground pits lined with volcanic rock to develop smoky flavor.
3. Crushing / Milling — Tahona stone wheels, hand chopping, or shredders crush roasted fibers.
4. Fermentation — Wild yeast ferments the agave mash in open-air vats or stone tanks.
5. Distillation — Mezcal is commonly distilled twice using copper or clay stills.
6. Resting & Bottling — Joven mezcal is bottled unaged; some expressions are lightly rested.
Inside the Palenque
Traditional mezcal palenques blend centuries-old techniques with regional craftsmanship. These photos highlight agave fields, roasting areas, clay and copper stills, and small-batch distillation spaces throughout Oaxaca.
Check out some of our photos:
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